Urban chickens would be
so cool. This is what I thought about as my Anthropology of Food class toured the UW farm. Keith Possee, tour guide and farm co-creator, mentioned the group's current struggle to obtain permission to keep chickens on the campus farm for the ultimate goal of creating some amount of closed circuitry in the garden. I felt his pain. For years I have harbored an intense desire to decorate my front lawn with a coop of saucy hens. I frequently picture a half-dozen of those plucky gals making soothing
cluck-cluck noises as they maneuver between a robust rhubarb and tomato pots. I want warm, green eggs, damn it!
One morning, before going to visit Ann Anagnost’s chickens, I called my mother in Olympia with the hopes that she would share some chicken stories with me. You see, before my birth and until I was very little, my family had a farm of sorts. We mostly owned a couple of horses but some close family friends did the whole farm thing nice and proper; pigs, cows, horses, goats, chickens, ducks, etc. My mother was given several chicks and put them in an empty aquarium equipped with a heat lamp. When the ladies got bigger, they were put in a chicken coop built by my father. Dad knew the area was patrolled by foxes and coyotes so he ran the chicken wire deep under the coop. Mom became very attached to the hens and named them all, of course. She never had any intention of turning them into chicken soup.
One day, mom’s favorite chicken, Singer, hopped up onto the wood pile below the kitchen window. She began pecking, waiting for a handout as she usually did. Mom went outside after feeding her and was dealing with one of the horses. She turned around and didn’t notice Singer pecking about between the horse’s legs. Out of the corner of her eye, my mom saw the chicken go flying and knew the horse had given it a swift kick. She and dad spent the next hour trying to spot Singer under the porch and they were sure she was dead. However, Singer, very much alive, was eventually hauled out and put back in the coop to see what would happen. After a week of recovery, Singer was back to her usual antics. The only exception was that her head now dragged close to the ground at her side.
The other story mom had to offer was about the night she was awoken from her sleep by the sound of frantic hens. Sleepily, she peered out the window and saw a chicken go flapping past, closely followed by a fox. Mom woke dad and together they set the dogs (a German Shepherd and a Great Dane) free, thinking they would make quick work of the fox. The dogs dashed out, did their doggie business on the trees and came racing back in. Miraculously, the chickens were not harmed and all were located the next day in a tree down by the creek.
All this chicken talk began to remind me of two other childhood incidents. My sister, Noelle, who is thirteen years older than me, was often left in charge of her annoying little sister. One day she’d had enough. I think I was following her around while she was trying to be cool and teenager-y with her friends. Noelle dragged me into the barn and ushered me into a hay bale house she and her buddies had created earlier in the day. She gave me a smooth, round rock and said, “If you sit on this and keep it warm, it’ll hatch. If you get off of it, it will die.”
I think I spent the better part of three hours on that rock until finally bursting into the kitchen in search of a hammer to crack it open and speed up the process.
Noelle also had me convinced, for the majority of my childhood, that Cadbury Crème Eggs were filled with real, raw egg yolk. I am still demanding reparations for years of unwittingly handing over my grandmother’s Easter gifts. So far, Noelle has not complied.
I have never owned an animal that produced food. Since I like food and I like animals, I’m sure my desire to own chickens comes from a marriage of the two likes. I am a fan of eggs yet I don’t eat them enough to constantly buy 12-packs of them. I would love to have a couple fresh eggs for daily purposes and only resort to grocery store eggs when I’m baking. Also, Sam has a love-hate relationship with eggs. His doctor ordered him to lay off unless it was just the occasional egg white. I am of the firm belief that an egg white omelet is a food of the devil and not worth making. Plus, my heart breaks a little if I have to toss an egg yolk down the drain. I do indulge him, of course, but it has become easier to just not eat eggs very often.
Here is one of my favorite bread recipes involving eggs. Please note, these are completely and deliciously unhealthy. Enjoy!
Brioche Beignets (Makes four 1-pound loaves of Brioche bread or three million Beignets)
1.5 cups lukewarm water
1.5 tbsp yeast
1.5 tbsp salt
8 eggs, lightly beaten
.5 cup honey
1.5 cups unsalted butter, melted
7.5 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
Egg wash (1 egg beaten with 1 tbsp water)
1. Mix yeast, salt, eggs, honey, and melted butter with the water in a large (5-quart) bowl.
2. Mix in the flour without kneading, using a spoon or a mixer. The dough will be loose but will firm up when chilled.
3. Cover (not airtight), and allow to rest at room temperature until dough rises and collapses (2 hours).
4. Chill the dough. It can be used as soon as it’s chilled or kept in the fridge for five days (beyond this, freeze it up to four weeks).
5. When ready to bake, tear off
a grapefruit sized portion of dough and quickly (less than 60 seconds) shape it into a ball, stretching the surface and bunching it up on the bottom.
6. Tear smaller chunks off of this and punch your thumb through the middles, stretching to make doughnuts. Be aware that you need to make the holes absurdly big since they will puff closed.
7. Allow the doughnuts to rest for 15-20 minutes.
8. Fill the saucepan (I use a wok) with three inches of vegetable oil and bring to 360-370*F.
9. Drop the beignets in 2 or 3 at a time. After 2 minutes, flip them over and let the other side lightly brown. Drain the doughnuts on a paper towel.
10. Dust generously with powdered sugar or a cinnamon/sugar mix.